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Moissanite Cuts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Right Stone Shape


Juli Church - March 24, 2024

Moissanite has become one of the most popular gemstone selections for modern engagement rings. Many people enjoy the stunning rainbow sparkle of a moissanite as well as its quality and price when compared to more expensive stones like diamonds.

Like all gemstones, it’s important to understand the quality factors when picking the perfect moissanite ring.  Understanding moissanite cuts, color, clarity, and carat weight can help you make an informed decision before choosing your moissanite jewelry design.

In this article, we’ll explore everything you need to know about moissanite cuts, including the types of cuts available, the cutting process of moissanite, and how cut factors in to the overall appearance of moissanite engagement rings.

Understanding the Basics of Moissanite Cuts

A gemstone’s cut is the foundation for all gemstones. The cut quality of a stone has a direct impact on its brilliance and sparkle. Cut is essential to the overall beauty of any gemstone.

What is a Cut for Moissanite?

A cut can refer to moissanite stone shapes, or the cutting process of the moissanite stone itself. Cut is important to the style and overall beauty of moissanite jewelry.

The Impact of Cut on Moissanite’s Brilliance

Before choosing a moissanite engagement ring, you need to analyze the cutting style of your center stone. There isn’t a recognized cut quality standard for moissanite engagement rings like there is with diamond engagement rings. Still, it is just as important to pick out a well-cut moissanite to maximize its brilliance and beauty.

The Cutting Process: From Rough to Radiant

Natural Moissanite

Moissanite was discovered in 1893 by Henry Moissan in a crater in Arizona. Natural moissanite is composed of silicon carbide, but is extremely rare. Nearly all moissanite jewelry is created in a laboratory. Up next, learn about the process of moissanite from its rough form all the way to the jewelry case.

1. Planning: Mapping the Moissanite

Before cutting the moissanite crystal, a moissanite cutter has to analyze a piece of rough. He assesses the shape, size, and clarity imperfections within the crystal. This shows him how to maximize the piece of rough while minimizing any imperfections.

2. Cleaving: Splitting the Crystal

The cleaving stage involves splitting the moissanite rough into smaller pieces, usually by a laser or diamond-tipped saw. Each piece is further analyzed to ensure it will result in multiple moissanite gemstones.

3. Bruting: Shaping the Gem

The smaller pieces of moissanite rough are bruted, which involves cutting the rough into its desired shape. The gem cutter facets the stone into its different proportions and optimizes it for the best brilliance.

4. Polishing: Final Touches for Sparkle

The pollishing process involves smoothing out the rough edges of the moissanite gem. This is done by using abrasives and other tools that smooth and buff out small surface blemishes. The end result is a beautiful sparkling gem.

5. Inspecting: Ensuring Quality and Precision

This is the final step for ensuring the cut moissanite is ready to be sent off to the retailer. Quality assurance specialist observe the polished moissanite gem to make sure it is smooth with very few flaws. Every detail is scrutinized under a jeweler’s loupe or other magnification tools.

Popular Cuts for Moissanite and Their Unique Characteristics

There are many beautiful cuts and shapes to choose for a moissanite engagement ring. Each cut has its own features, cutting style, and history. Read more to learn about moissanite cuts.

Brilliant Round Cut: Timeless Elegance

Round brilliant cuts are the most popular shape choice for moissanite gemstones. They are known for their classic round shape and exceptional ability to reflect light, resulting in a brilliant sparkle of rainbow light. Round cuts are a classic and timeless shape choice. They are incredibly versatile, working with many different engagement ring settings as well as other jewelry options like earrings and pendants.

A round brilliant cut moissanite typically has 58 facets. This includes 34 facets on the crown and 27 facets on the pavilion. These facets are precisely arranged to maximize the stone’s brilliance and fire beyond all other gemstone shapes

Modified round brilliant cuts are cuts that have taken the original round cut and included extra facets or designs different from the standard round brilliant cut. An example of this would be the moissanite criss cut. The moissanite criss cut is a patented design featuring additional facets, resulting in a criss-cross design seen in the center of the stone. Modified cuts like this are purely personal preference.

Princess Cut: Modern and Sophisticated

Princess cuts tend to be the second most popular shape choice for engagement rings. The princess cut shape is relatively modern, having been introduced in the 1970s and 1980s by a London diamond cutter named Arpad Nagy.  At the time, it was called the profile cut. It was developed as a geometric alternative to the round brilliant cut.

Princess cut shaped moissanite usually has 57 facets, but they can have up to 76 facets, depending on the cutting style. Many variations of the princess cut have been created, resulting in more facets and more intricate designs.

A moissanite princess cut has a combination of kite-shaped facets and step-cut facets. Kite-shaped facets are triangular , while step-cut facets are long and narrow, typically seen in an emerald cut engagement ring. Unlike a round cut stone, a princess cut moissanite maximizes carat weight. This means that princess cut moissanite will appear larger than a round brilliant cut of the same carat weight.

Cushion Cut: Soft Edges with a Romantic Appeal

A cushion cut moissanite serves as a compromise between a princess cut and round brilliant cut. The cushion cut retains the square shape of a princess cut, but offers a softer square shape with rounded corners that give it a “cushion” or pillow-shaped appearance.

Cushion cut moissanite may have between 58-64 facets, depending on its style. Both princess and cushion cuts have alternative styles and appearances that result in a different number of facets. The most popular cushion cut variants are the crushed ice cushion and the chunky cushion.

A moissanite cushion cut with a “crushed ice” appearance may resemble the look of crushed ice or shattered glass. The look is achieved by cutting small facets into the stone. A “chunky” cushion cut moissanite has larger facets and a deeper pavilion. This gives the cushion shape a bold appearance.

Other variations of a cushion cut moissanite can include the modified cushion cut, antique cushion cut, and the brilliant cushion cut. The moissanite elongated cushion cut is also popular, allowing more length in the stone while still keeping the standard cushion faceting.

Oval Cut: Unique Symmetry and Elongated Elegance

A moissanite oval cut stone is an older cut, having first appeared in the late 18th century. It was created to reflect the same rounded appearance and brilliance of a traditional round cut while maximizing its size. The elongated shape of an oval cut is known to appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight as well as making the fingers look more slender.

Oval cuts usually have between 58-64 facets, depending on style. There aren’t as many variations of the oval moissanite as other moissanite cuts, but the oval cut design itself is derived from the moissanite rose cut shape. It incorporates the faceting pattern of the rose cut while adding elongated facets not seen in a moissanite rose cut.

Pear Cut: A Blend of Marquise and Oval

A moissanite pear cut can also be referred to the teardrop shape or the pendeloque cut. This unique shape features a rounded bottom that comes to a point at the top. A pear cut moissanite typically has 57-58 facets to maximize its brilliance and fire. It incorporates the elongated shape of an oval cut while having a pointed end similar to a moissanite marquise cut.

The pear cut is worn with the point at the top, though some choose to wear it the opposite way. Others may choose a pear cut with a sharper point, wider bottom, or other aesthetic differences. The pear cut is believed to have originated during the 15th and 16th century, but there is no person attributed to its development.

Marquise Cut: Distinctive and Eye-Catching

The marquise cut moissanite is a distinct shape known for its thin, elongated shape complete with two pointed ends. It may also be called the navette cut because of its resemblance to a little boat shape. Most marquise cut stones have 57-58 facets.

Marquise cuts were first introduced in the 18th century by King Louis XV of France. He wanted the diamond cutter to facet a gem shape that resembled the petite mouth of his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Because of the marquise cut elongated shape, it is known for appearing larger than other gem shapes of the same weight as well as making the fingers appear longer.

Emerald Cut: Vintage Charm with a Modern Twist

credited: Emilian101

A moissanite emerald cut is one of the oldest gemstone cuts having originated during the 16th century. It is known for its rectangular shape and truncated corners. Emerald cuts utilize step-cut facets, which are known for their stairlike appearance.

Emerald cut moissanite and other step-cut shapes produce a different kind of briliance than shapes with brilliant facets like the round cut or the cushion cut moissanite shapes. The long, narrow facets produce long, dramatic flashes of light, often referred to as the “hall of mirrors” effect.

The cut was first developed to enhance the appearance of emerald gemstones, but has evolved into varying trends for engagement rings.

Asscher Cut: Geometric Beauty with Art Deco Influence

The Asscher cut is a patented cut developed by the Asscher brothers in 1902 as the Royal Asscher cut. The Asscher cut is a square cut shape with cropped corners. When looking at a moissanite Asscher cut stone, you are able to see an X in the center of its 58 facets. Like emerald cuts, an Asscher cut moissanite has step-cut facets and produces the “hall of mirrors” effect.

Both emerald cuts and Asscher cuts reached popularity during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s. The Art Deco jewelry period favored geometric shapes and clean lines for engagement rings and wedding bands during this time.

Radiant Cut: Fiery Sparkle with Trimmed Corners

A moissanite radiant cut stone has similar truncated corners to emerald cuts, but with brilliant cut facets instead of step-cut facets. Radiant cuts may be square or rectangular in shape, depending on personal style.

The radiant cut shape was introduced in the 1970s by Henry Grossbard. He wanted to create a geometric shape like the emerald cut or the Asscher but with the brilliance and sparkle of a round cut stone. It is known to have 70 facets, more than most moissanite cuts.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Your Moissanite Cut

Aside from shape appeal, there are some considerations to think about before making your final choice. Here are some helpful tips to keep in mind when choosing a moissanite cut.

Personal Style: Matching the Cut with Your Aesthetic

Many people choose their moissanite cut style based on their personal aesthetic. For example, if you find yourself drawn to classic and modern looks, a round brilliant cut might be the best for you.

If you like modern engagement rings, the princess cut could be a great option with its clean lines and square shape.

For those with vintage tastes, you might go for older gemstone cuts, like the moissanite old mine cut or the moissanite european cut.

Those with shorter or wider fingers may enjoy elongated cuts like the moissanite elongated cushion cut, the oval cut, or the emerald cut.

If you find brilliant cuts and their glittering brilliance a bit overwhelming, step-cuts like the emerald cut or the Asscher cut might be more to your liking.

Budget Considerations: Understanding Price Variations Among Cuts

Some moissanite cuts will cost more than others. For example, a 1 carat round brilliant cut moissanite will usually cost more than a 1 carat princess cut moissanite. Round cuts are known for their excellent clarity and brilliance, but they don’t retain as much rough as a princess cut. Cutters have to throw away more rough, which can drive up cost.

Princess cuts retain around 70% of the moissanite rough, while round cuts retain about 40% of the original crystal. In order to optimize round brilliant cuts to exact symmetry and ultimate brilliance, more of the rough needs to be discarded during the cutting process.

Step-cuts like the emerald cut and Asscher cut moissanites may also cost less than other cuts. Step-cut shapes produce unique flashes of light, but can make clarity imperfections more noticeable than brilliant cuts. This may contribute to a lower overall cost.

Maximizing the Beauty of Your Moissanite Jewelry

Whether you’ve chosen a moissanite engagement ring, necklace, or a pair of moissanite earrings, it is essential to pick a setting that enhances the beauty of your moissanite cut.

The Role of Settings in Enhancing Moissanite Cuts

Overall, moissanite has excellent durability. Its hardness, tenacity, and stability are exceptional. Still, it’s important that your chosen setting protects your cut from accidental bumps or drops. Moissanite cuts with pointed ends like the pear cut, marquise cut, or even a moissanite trilliant should have prongs or claws that protect those points.

Solitaire, Halo, or Pave: Choosing the Right Setting

credited: Paul Noillimrev

You have many engagement ring setting styles to choose from. The solitaire ring is the most popular, known for its classic style and timeless appearance. Solitaire engagement rings are perfect for those who want all of the attention on their center stone rather than lost in a sea of sparkling accent stones.

On the other hand, if you love plenty of sparkle, a halo engagement ring might be a fitting choice. A halo ring features a ring of moissanite stones surrounding your center stone. It’s excellent for protecting pointed shapes like a moissanite marquise cut or a pear cut moissanite. The ring of sparkle can also make smaller center stones appear larger.

Pave settings incorporate very small accent stones in their settings. Pave is French for “paved road”. Pave settings have very little metal between the stones, like a paved road of sparkle. There are also variations of pave settings including pave, micropave, French pave, bead pave, shared prong pave, and channel pave settings.

Matching Moissanite Cuts with Metal Types

There are many different precious metals to choose for your moissanite engagement ring setting. Other metals such as stainless steel, copper, palladium, and titanium are much less common for moissanite rings.

Gold, Platinum, or Silver: What Works Best?

Gold is the most popular engagement ring metal choice. Gold may be available as yellow gold, white gold, or rose gold. White gold is composed of gold and other white metal alloys. It requires a layer of rhodium to retain its appearance. Over time, rhodium will fade and needs to be replated. White gold is the most popular choice of metal. Rose gold is composed of gold and copper. Rose gold is usually only available in 10K or 14K because 18K may appear less rose colored and more copper.

Platinum is more dense than gold, resulting in a heavier metal and often costs a bit more than 14K or 18K gold. It is a white metal that retains its color without the need of rhodium, but is vulnerable to scratches. Fortunately, standard ring polishing can buff out any scratches on a platinum ring.

Silver may be used in less expensive moissanite jewelry, but is a good option if you’re looking to save a bit of money. Silver requires a little more maintenance than gold or platinum. Silver is known to tarnish, so it will require a polishing cloth to retain its shiny appearance.

Expert Recommendations: Choosing the Best Cut for Your Needs

Tips From Jewelers on Selecting the Perfect Moissanite Cut

The best shape for moissanite is the shape that you like the most. If you value brilliance and sparkle, you should opt for a round brilliant cut or other brilliant cut shape. If you want something more unique, perhaps a custom cut moissanite or a less common moissanite cut is in your future.

Whichever cut you choose, make sure the proportions, polish, and symmetry are up to standard for that shape. Each shape has its own guidelines and measurements for ideal quality and should be followed for ultimate beauty and durability.

Custom Cut Options: When Off-the-Shelf Isn’t Enough

Many moissanite buyers do not realize they have other options beyond the standard moissanite cuts available. Most moissanite jewelers have these standard moissanite cuts:

  • Moissanite round cut
  • Moissanite princess cut
  • Moissanite cushion cut
  • Moissanite pear cut
  • Moissanite oval cut
  • Moissanite heart cut
  • Moissanite marquise cut
  • Moissanite radiant cut
  • Moissanite emerald cut
  • Moissanite asscher cut

Other jewelers may offer different moissanite cuts like:

  • Moissanite trilliant cut
  • Moissanite baguette cut
  • Moissanite criss cut
  • Moissanite european cut
  • Moissanite elongated cushion cut
  • Moissanite antique cushion cut
  • Moissanite jubilee cut
  • Moissanite old mine cut
  • Moissanite oval rose cut
  • Moissanite rose cut
  • Moissanite table cut

You may even choose a custom-cut moissanite stone from some jewelers. Custom-cuts are created by both the cutter and the individual. Instead of following traditional moissanite cuts, the cut is determined by customer preference. This allows for a deeper personalization and enhanced creativity by the cutter.

Caring for Your Moissanite: Maintenance and Longevity

Like any gemstone, it’s important to take care of your moissanite jewelry. This goes beyond simply taking care of it while wearing it. You must take care of your stone and its setting by cleaning it regularly and storing it properly when you aren’t wearing it.

Cleaning and Storage Tips to Keep Your Moissanite Sparkling

To clean your moissanite jewelry, you should use a soft bristled brush and mixture of mild soap and water. Use the brush to gently clean the stone and its setting. The bristles should clean between small spaces and openings found in many settings.

It’s important to inspect your moissanite jewelry for loose or chipped stones. Though moissanite’s durability is excellent, it can still chip if hit in the right spot. While it has excellent stability, you should refrain from wearing moissanite jewelry when cleaning, doing yardwork, and put it on after lotion or perfume.

Even though moissanite has great durability, these things can still affect the integrity of the precious metals in your setting.

Conclusion: Finding Your Perfect Moissanite Cut

There are many options to choose from when selecting your moissanite cut. With a wide array of cuts available, there is a moissanite cut to suit every taste and occasion. When choosing a moissanite cut, you should take your personal tastes, aesthetics, budget, and setting under consideration. Whether your tastes are timeless like the round cut or more vintage like the emerald cut moissanite, you can have a stunning and durable alternative to the standard diamond engagement ring.

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